Beer from wine regions is nothing new to WA, with microbreweries in the Swan Valley, Margaret River and Pemberton. The eastern states of Australia have latched on to the idea, stressing that beer complements rather than combats the wine ethos. Barossa Valley Brewing, for instance, consulted South Australia’s chefs and sommeliers on what characteristics they’d prefer in beer for drinking with food before formulating its brews.
The quality and flair of the Lyndoch microbrewery’s ales persuaded Paul Wormley, of Perth-based World Brands Australia, to bring coals to Newcastle – so to speak – and “imported” them to WA.
First was Bee Sting, already an award winner with a big reputation over east. Billed as a wheat beer, it made an impact with local beer drinkers who, after all, have set the national trend for this refreshing style since the Red Back breakthrough and now with Feral White.
Not only is bottled Bee Sting sold at 150 outlets including Vintage Cellars, but is served on tap at Woodvale Tavern, Victoria Hotel in Victoria Park and Fremantle’s Tradewinds. It was also on tap last summer at Clancy’s, and is expected to return with the warmer weather.
The second beer from the SA wine country, Barossa Valley Organic Ale, arrived recently. On the label, consumers are asked to supply feedback so the brewers can continue to develop the beer “organically”.
Both Barossa Valley craft beers use only natural ingredients, are packed in strikingly stylish, horizontally-labelled, brown, 330ml bottles – even the gold and black crown caps are distinctive - and pour with good white heads which leave sip-spaced patterns down the glass. And both are ultra smooth and more-ish.
Barossa Valley Bee Sting (5 per cent)
The honey “wheat” beer is unfiltered and yeast-conditioned in the bottle or keg, therefore slightly cloudy, with delicate floral, orange and honey hints on nose and tongue. While bearing the yeast influence that is the hallmark of traditional 50-50 wheat ales, Bee Sting has only a touch of wheat grain – 5 per cent, the same amount as Riverland honey. It is an easy drink, an understated, well-balanced, light, crisp and refreshing take on summer ale, thankfully avoiding the claggy sweetness of honey while retaining its subtle back-taste. The “sting” is a discernible, delightful bitter flourish at the end from Slovenian Goldings hops.
Barossa Valley Organic Ale (5 per cent)
Made with certified organically-grown ingredients, this beer hits the mouth with an exuberant freshness which proceeds to tickle the tongue with a tartness intensifying into berry and citrus flavours, following the requirements of a “big, bold American pale ale”. Its appearance appeals, with a full, pillowy white head, medium amber colour and medium clarity. The beer drinks with only medium length - but as soon as the taste goes you take another sip to recapture it, so that doesn’t matter. The brewer recommends Organic Ale with spicy dishes.
Clancy’s Fish Pub regulars are currently deprived of Fisher’s ESB unfiltered, hand-pulled ale because the handpump at the Fremantle WA Ale bar is under repair. Prospects are good, however: the next Fisher’s brew, made by the staff under supervision at Mash Brewing in the Swan Valley, is planned for spring, with the beer engine back in action. Clancy’s co-owner Joe Fisher says it’ll be an English-style, unfiltered, slightly cloudy, summer ale.
Alton’s Pride, the new Champion Beer of Britain, proves that high alcohol levels aren’t necessary in good beer, packing enough flavour, body and floral aroma at 3.8 per cent to beat 450 other real ales to the title. And Hampshire’s Triple fff( also showed how local microbreweries can succeed from small beginnings, pouring $1.5m into its Magpie Works brewhouse, increasing output tenfold to supply 200 outlets and buying two pubs in the 10 years since setting up.